Pierrot (1914)

Pierrot by Les Parfums de Rosine was launched in 1914, a year marked by both artistic vibrancy and the looming shadow of global conflict. The name Pierrot was drawn from the world of commedia dell'arte, the traditional Italian theatrical form filled with stock characters, each one expressive and symbolic. Pierrot, the pale-faced, moon-loving clown dressed in loose white garments and forever pining after the love of Columbine, is a figure of poetic melancholy—innocent, tender, and emotionally vulnerable. The name Pierrot (pronounced “Pee-air-oh” in French) evokes wistful longing, sweetness tinged with sadness, and a quiet inner world brimming with romantic daydreams.

It’s no surprise that Paul Poiret, ever the theatrical couturier, would choose such a figure for one of his perfumes. Poiret was known to identify deeply with artistic archetypes—dreamers, performers, aesthetes—and Pierrot, as the eternal outsider and poetic soul, mirrored elements of his own flamboyant persona. The imagery of Pierrot would have resonated strongly with women of the time: soft-hearted, gentle, and emotionally rich, the perfume offered a sense of purity and poetic expression in a rapidly modernizing world. To wear Pierrot was to wear the soul of a daydreamer, to invite the freshness of apple blossoms and citrus into one’s life, tempered by woody restraint and a sigh of longing.

The perfume itself was classified as a hesperidic woody fragrance for women—a blend that suggested the crisp clarity of citrus fruits paired with warm, grounding woods. A scent that conjured up dimity fabric fluttering on a spring breeze, and apple blossoms drifting gently in a garden. With notes that included bergamot, neroli, petitgrain, and a whisper of aldehydes to brighten the composition, Pierrot opened with a tender, effervescent freshness. Beneath that sparkling façade lay soft florals and gentle woods—delicate orris, rose, and a hint of sandalwood and vetiver—blending into a quiet base that anchored the innocence of the top in earthy grace.

Released at the dawn of World War I, Pierrot must have seemed like a small, beautiful escape—a pause in the chaos. It aligned with the early 20th century’s growing appreciation for more transparent, naturalistic scents, especially those evoking gardens, orchard blossoms, and youthfulness. Yet, with its poetic concept and theatrical roots, Pierrot also stood apart. It was more than a perfume; it was a narrative—an olfactory vignette about innocence, longing, and the tender ache of beauty.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Pierrot by Rosine is classified as a hesperidic woody fragrance for women. "Pierrot, Fresh and entrancing."

•  Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, Paraguayan petitgrain, Italian citron, Tunisian neroli, nerol, Guinea orange, Moroccan orange blossom, Syrian cassie, anisaldehyde, linalol, lilacine, araucaria oil
• Middle notes: Bourbon rose geranium, Provencal lavender, amyl valeriante, North African tagetes, Italian jasmine, Grasse rose, Florentine orris, ionone, Manila ylang ylang, Portuguese tuberose, heliotropin, Zanzibar clove 
• Base notes: ambergris, ambreine, Tibetan musk, musk ketone, Virginian cedar, Mysore sandalwood, Balkans oakmoss, Haitian vetiver, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, Mexican vanilla, vanillin 

Scent Profile:

Pierrot by Les Parfums de Rosine is a hesperidic woody fragrance that opens with a sigh of lightness and ends in a soft hush of mossy woods. It is as delicate and evocative as its namesake—the gentle dreamer of the commedia dell’arte—imbued with breezes of citrus, blossoms, and soft skin-like musks that linger with understated emotion.

The opening is bright and luminous, a sparkling blend of Calabrian bergamot and Sicilian lemon, their rinds bursting with aromatic oils that feel sun-soaked and pure. The bergamot, cultivated along Italy’s Ionian coast, is prized for its balance of floral and bitter green facets—less sharp than lemon, more radiant than orange. Italian citron adds a candied citrus quality, deeply fragrant and slightly waxy, while Paraguayan petitgrain, distilled from the twigs and leaves of the bitter orange tree, introduces a green, woody crispness. Guinea orange brings a round, sweet fullness, more nostalgic than acidic. The citrus blend is nuanced by Tunisian neroli—ethereal and honeyed, plucked from orange blossoms and steam-distilled to preserve their creamy-white delicacy. Nerol, a naturally occurring compound in neroli, heightens this effect, adding a clean, almost soapy brightness.

The top accord continues to shimmer with Moroccan orange blossom absolute, richer and more sultry than neroli, alongside Syrian cassie, which contributes a subtle powdery warmth, like mimosa with a faint suede undertone. Anisaldehyde, a soft aromatic with a subtle licorice sweetness, adds a curious whimsical note—evoking a candy-shop memory rather than spice. Lilacine, a synthetic lilac note, brings a springlike green-floral clarity, while linalool contributes soft, herbal freshness. Lastly, araucaria oil, distilled from coniferous trees native to South America, lends a peculiar but harmonious evergreen camphoraceous whisper—unexpected, like the forest edge in a daydream.

The heart of Pierrot drapes itself in blossoms. Bourbon rose geranium, from Réunion Island, is intensely rosy with a slightly minty-rosy-green character, providing body and a natural transition into Grasse rose—a rich floral absolute with soft honeyed facets. Italian jasmine adds a creamy, narcotic elegance, while Portuguese tuberose imparts voluptuous depth with its exotic, buttery richness. Florentine orris, ground from aged iris roots, adds powdery violet tones and a soft suede-like luxury. Supporting this are the sweet hay and almond nuances of heliotropin, the violet-red fruitiness of ionone, and the sharp green bitterness of North African tagetes, which gives a vegetal contrast. Zanzibar clove and its primary component, eugenol, bring a spicy undercurrent, but it’s softened and never sharp, lending warmth rather than fire. The addition of amyl valeriante, a warm and slightly musky compound, ties these florals together with a faint animalic breath, hinting at the skin-like warmth to come.

The drydown reveals the poetry of the woods. Mysore sandalwood, creamy and golden, is the soul of this composition—earthy, sacred, and quietly enveloping. From Virginian cedar, it draws a drier, pencil-shavings clarity, while Haitian vetiver adds grassy depth and coolness, balancing the warmth. Oakmoss from the Balkans brings a damp forest-floor tone, essential for grounding the hesperidic flight above. Ambergris—the rare marine-sweet note that smells like the sea and skin—adds an almost translucent depth, bolstered by ambreine, a synthetic musk-amber that enhances longevity and softness. Tibetan musk and musk ketone wrap the base in a downy warmth, like clean skin under white linen. To finish, Mexican vanilla and vanillin lend a gourmand whisper—not sugary, but comforting—paired with Venezuelan tonka bean and coumarin, which create a powdery-sweet echo of almond, hay, and soft wood.

In sum, Pierrot is not merely a perfume—it’s a delicate sigh wrapped in citrus lace and soft woods. It dances between playful light and wistful longing, just like the poetic clown whose name it bears.

Pan, 1920:

"If Paul Poiret of Paris prepared a perfectly priceless perfume, what is the appellation of the perfectly priceless perfume that Paul Poiret of Paris prepared ? (In case you don't know, the answer " PIERROT.")"

Pan, 1920:

"Still feeling in need of comfort, I went to buy some scent, for a really good perfume, as you know, acts like a balm to the soul, a pick me up to jaded nerves, and is truly worth a guinea a drop, and if you are anything like me, you will not be content to run one special perfume for any length of time, but demand a different scent for every day, for every mood, for every frock, and in Poiret's Rosine creations you can satisfy every need. The bottles are quaintly devised - the scents adorably named. 

I tried to decide between "Forbidden Fruit" (the bottle shaped to resemble a golden apple) and smelling like all the orchards in Kent, and slender, gold-flecked exquisitely hand-painted with birds and fishes, containing a spray like the scented mist that clothes that newly awakened dawn; but I eventually carried off "Pierrot," a dainty conceit of frosted glass, with a black stopper, and an impudent-looking Toby-frill round its neck, and a perfume that suggested dimity and apple blossom and a pure and blameless life) so appropriate, you know). 

I loved " Borgia," a dreamy, languorous scent and, best of all, the bright little Rosine powder- boxes in their gay coats of flowered chintz."

 

Bottles:

The presentation of Pierrot by Les Parfums de Rosine is as lyrical and theatrical as the character for which it is named. Paul Poiret, ever a master of storytelling through design, chose to root this perfume in the imagery and emotion of the commedia dell’arte, with Pierrot—the pale-faced, melancholic dreamer—as its muse. Drawing from the character’s costume, the bottle itself is an exercise in poetic restraint: clear glass, elegant and simple, crowned with a glossy black glass stopper evocative of Pierrot’s traditional cap. Around the neck, a delicate pleated white muslin frill echoes his ruffled collar—perhaps a nod to Poiret’s early days as a seamster creating costume pieces for stage and couture alike. This subtle textile detail quietly links Poiret’s fashion beginnings with his olfactory creations.

The packaging carries the theatricality further. The box is rendered in stark black and white, the classic color palette of Pierrot’s costume, grounding the fragrance in its dramatic roots. Upon the surface of the box dances a motif drawn from the haunting French lullaby “Au clair de la lune”, a song that has long been associated with the character. The box is described as “starry”—as if caught beneath a moonlit sky—while poetic fragments allude to the wistful melancholy of Paul Verlaine’s famous poem Clair de Lune, in which scent mingles with moonlight and fountains sob with ecstasy under a sad, beautiful night. These details combine to evoke a world of soft theatrical romance, where perfume is not merely worn but performed.

Clair de Lune, 

".....and its perfume mingles with the moonlight,

.......In the calm, sad and beautiful moonlight,

Who makes the birds dream in the trees

And sob with ecstasy the jets of water,

The tall, slender fountains among the marbles." - Paul Verlaine

Such packaging would have immediately resonated with early 20th-century women—particularly during the shifting cultural tides of 1914—who found themselves torn between tradition and the blossoming freedoms of modern life. Pierrot, with its tender presentation and poetic references, offered not just fragrance but a narrative: the scent of moonlit sadness, dreamlike yearning, and nostalgic beauty.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1914, Pierrot by Les Parfums de Rosine emerged during a period of great social and artistic change, just as Europe stood on the brink of the First World War. It was one of Paul Poiret’s most poetic and emotionally evocative creations—an olfactory tribute to the wistful, moonlit figure of the commedia dell’arte. With its delicate hesperidic-woody character and theatrical presentation, Pierrot captured the spirit of a fading Belle Époque, where romance, art, and symbolism played central roles in the cultural imagination.

Despite its charm and distinct identity, Pierrot met the same fate as the rest of the Rosine line when the company ceased operations in 1930. The economic toll of the postwar years, coupled with shifting tastes and the effects of the global financial crisis, led to the quiet closure of Les Parfums de Rosine. Although production halted that year, bottles of Pierrot—like many of the house’s fragrances—could still be found on store shelves in the months that followed, lingering as echoes of a more poetic era. Today, Pierrot remains one of the more elusive Rosine perfumes, remembered fondly by collectors for its nostalgic concept and refined presentation, which continue to embody Poiret’s unique marriage of fashion, theater, and scent.

Coeur en Folie (1922)

Coeur en Folie, launched by Les Parfums de Rosine in 1922 and formally introduced to a wider international audience at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris, was one of Paul Poiret’s boldest and most theatrical perfume creations. A collaboration between Poiret and Jacques de Brunhoff, the presentation for the perfume was inspired by the 1924 stage revue Cœurs en Folie (“Mad Hearts”), performed at the Folies Bergère—a show that blended decadence, fantasy, and sensuality, much like Poiret’s perfumes.

The name Coeur en Folie (pronounced kuhr ahn fo-LEE) translates literally to “Heart in Madness,” though it was also suggestively rendered at the time as “Heart on Fire.” In early 20th-century French slang, the phrase en folie carried risqué undertones—it was a term used in reference to animals "in heat." For a perfume to bear such a name during the 1920s was deliberately provocative, signaling passion, emotional abandon, and dangerous seduction. Poiret, always attuned to the interplay between scandal and style, understood how to use such language to market not just a scent, but a feeling of forbidden allure.

The early 1920s was a time of postwar exuberance. Women had emerged from wartime constraints into a world of greater social freedom, dancing in jazz halls, wearing shorter skirts, and exploring new identities through fashion and fragrance. Coeur en Folie would have appealed to this generation of liberated women—those who wanted their perfume to speak in bold notes, to whisper secrets of late nights and whispered kisses. The name alone suggested reckless romance and a kind of sensual danger that would have been irresistible to many.

Though no surviving formula has been published, Coeur en Folie was advertised as having a “dark red color,” similar to blood—a detail it shared with the earlier and more controversial Sang de France (1915). It is likely that Coeur en Folie either reused or was closely based on that earlier formula, which was described as “pungent.” From this, and from the time period, one might reasonably surmise that the perfume was a spicy floral, possibly centered around carnation and clove—ingredients often associated with warmth, intensity, and emotional boldness. Carnation, rich in eugenol, gives a peppery warmth to florals, while clove adds a dry, smoky bite—altogether forming a profile that feels intimate, even a little dangerous.

Within the context of perfumery in the early 1920s, Coeur en Folie would not have been unusual in its intensity—this was a period in which heavy orientals and florientals, rich with amber, spice, and animalic notes, were highly fashionable. What set it apart, however, was the deeply emotional narrative Poiret built around it: a perfume not just worn, but performed. It was not merely a scent; it was a declaration of passion, of madness, of the heart unbound.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? I have no published notes on this composition, but it was most likely the same composition as the original used for Sang de France. Both were advertised as having a "dark red color" akin to blood. It was described as "pungent" so I would surmise it was a spicy floral perfume, most likely dominated by carnation and cloves.  

• Top notes: bergamot, acacia, jonquil, neroli, rose geranium, pimento, petitgrain
• Middle notes: carnation, rose, jasmine, orange blossom, tuberose, orris, cinnamon, violet
• Base notes: ambergris, musk, vanilla, oakmoss, patchouli, styrax, tolu, benzoin, sandalwood, civet

Harper's Bazaar, 1916:

"Poiret, I hear has been forced to withdraw his new perfume Sang de France from the market. The authorities took exception to the bottle, which was in the shape of a heart; to the colour of the extract which was blood red; and to the name which brutally emphasized conditions as they are to-day in France."

Scent Profile:

As I uncork the deep red flacon of Coeur en Folie, the scent that rises is intense and immediate—an exhale of fire and flowers, like the perfumed breath of a long-forgotten theatre. The color of the perfume itself—red as garnet or blood—hints at what’s to come: something carnal, florid, and emotionally charged.

The first impression is a vivid spark of Calabrian bergamot, bright and slightly bitter, cutting through the air like the clink of crystal. It lends a green-citrus sharpness, softened quickly by the honeyed, powdery breath of acacia blossoms, which hover like pale yellow pollen in the air. Jonquil adds a narcotic lift—its scent intensely floral, but tinged with the breath of hay. A thread of Tunisian neroli runs through the top, rich with that green-white bitterness of orange flowers just about to bloom. Interwoven is the crisp, metallic brightness of rose geranium, with its lemony-rosy duality, lending an herbal aspect that tilts the opening toward complexity. Then—unexpected—pimento appears, with its warm, oily heat. The spice is subtle but insinuating, and coupled with petitgrain, which carries both green sharpness and woody depth, the top notes sizzle and settle like a volatile prelude to something far more decadent.

As the fragrance unfurls, the heart blossoms with commanding warmth. Carnation dominates—fiery, spicy, and full-bodied. This is not the demure flower of bouquets, but the kind laced with eugenol, a naturally occurring compound responsible for the clove-like note that defines vintage carnation perfumes. It is both medicinal and romantic, like crushed petals on hot skin. Damask rose, particularly if sourced from Bulgaria, adds a rounded richness—velvety and honeyed. The Grasse jasmine enters next, thick and indolic, its animalic whisper mingling with orange blossom and tuberose to create a white floral trio that is at once heady and faintly illicit. Florentine orris, with its soft, powdery-rooted earthiness, tempers the overt lushness. A trace of violet lends a green, metallic shimmer—its fleeting breath reminiscent of crushed leaves and sweet petals. Then comes cinnamon, warm and dry, brushing against the floral medley with its red spice, adding a lingering hum of warmth that reads as skin and smoke.

The base is where the true pulse of the perfume lies—deep, ambery, and unashamedly animalic. Ambergris, that rare gift of the sea, gives a saline softness and fixative power. Its pairing with natural musk and civet forms the backbone of the perfume’s sensuality—rich, musky, slightly dirty, like warmed skin after a waltz. Vanilla and benzoin bring sweetness—warm, resinous, and slightly leathery—never cloying, but rounded and smooth. Oakmoss, with its damp, forest-floor earthiness, balances the sweetness, grounding it. Patchouli, particularly from Indonesia, adds a woody-spiced darkness—like the faded velvet curtains of a turn-of-the-century theatre, perfumed by decades of performances. Styrax and tolu balsam lend smoky, resinous undertones—like incense burnt in secret. Finally, sandalwood from Mysore finishes the experience with its signature creamy, sacred warmth—resinous and woody, a whisper of India and temples.

The composition is cohesive, theatrical, and emotionally potent. Its spicy-floral structure leans into vintage glamour—pungent in the best sense: not sharp, but expressive. Aromachemicals such as eugenol and linalool would likely have been used to bolster the natural materials—adding both lift and longevity, while mimicking the carnation and jasmine in ways that made the scent radiate off fabric and skin, especially fur, which it was intended to cling to.

Altogether, Coeur en Folie would have smelled like a heart unchained—lush flowers and warm skin, red velvet and cloves, a perfume meant for drama, for memory, and for passion.

Bottles:

The presentation of Coeur en Folie is a triumph of theatrical design—an exquisite marriage of whimsy and romance that perfectly embodies the perfume’s name, which translates to “Mad Heart” or “Heart in Frenzy.” The flacon itself, originally introduced in 1915 for Sang de France, was reused in 1922 for this newer release, and remains one of the most visually compelling bottles of its era. Designed by the celebrated Julien Viard, the bottle is carved from radiant ruby red crystal, stylized into the anatomical shape of a human heart—rounded and full, as if flushed with emotion. Atop this vibrant vessel rests a delicate frosted crystal stopper, sculpted to resemble a pair of angelic wings—an ethereal touch symbolizing the heart’s flight toward its beloved. This evocative design was as poetic as it was visual, inviting wearers to dream, to remember, and to fall in love.

Two versions of the bottle were produced. The smaller size stands at just 1 3/5 inches tall, with a width of 2.75 inches at its fullest point, while the larger edition reaches 2.5 inches in height and nearly 2.5 inches across—both perfectly proportioned to fit in the hand like a talisman of passion. The bottles were likely manufactured by either Depinoix or Lefébure, both of whom frequently collaborated with Les Parfums de Rosine and were known for their mastery of luxury glasswork during the Art Deco period.

The perfume's packaging is no less enchanting. It came housed in a heart-shaped box covered in vivid red paper—bold, romantic, and unmistakably modern. Inside, the bottle rests gently within the base, encircled by a finely pleated ruffle that acts almost like a fabric embrace, adding an element of couture softness to the crystalline form. The lid of the box continues the thematic detailing, with the perfume’s name, Coeur en Folie, printed in a whimsical font, the letter “O” replaced by a heart, creating a seamless link between the name, the scent, and the presentation.

The entire concept was conceived in collaboration between Paul Poiret and Jacques de Brunhoff, the latter of whom would later become known for creating Babar the Elephant. Their shared vision was inspired by the 1924 stage production Cœurs en Folie—a theatrical fantasy filled with passion, madness, and romance. Every element of the presentation—from the heart-shaped bottle to the winged stopper and the coquettish box—was designed to speak directly to the emotions, to femininity, and to the inner drama of love. This was not merely packaging—it was a miniature stage set for a perfume conceived to play the lead in the romantic reveries of its wearer.

Honolulu Star Bulletin, 1925:

Coeur en Folie, folly of the heart, is the scent of fascinating mystery from Paul Poiret. This is put up in a whimsical heart-shaped flask."

  

Other Bottles:

1922 Rosine "Coeur en Folie" perfume bottle in clear glass, green glass stopper corded and sealed, with label, box, and advertising insert, in original tissue printed with all Rosine perfumes, outer card box, sealed in wrapper. 3 3/4 in. Photo by Perfume Bottles Auction

Fate of the Fragrance:

Coeur en Folie was officially launched in 1925, though the fragrance itself had first appeared under a different guise a decade earlier. Originally introduced as Sang de France in 1915, the composition was reimagined and presented anew under a more whimsical and emotionally charged title. The rebranding, along with a theatrical presentation and an evocative new name—Coeur en Folie ("Mad Heart" or "Heart in Frenzy")—was timed to coincide with the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris, a moment that defined the Art Deco era. It reflected Paul Poiret’s fascination with romance, performance, and luxurious visual storytelling.

Despite its dramatic flair and rich symbolism, Coeur en Folie, like all the fragrances in the Les Parfums de Rosine line, was ultimately discontinued in 1930 when Poiret's company closed. Changing tastes, the economic strain of the Great Depression, and Poiret's dwindling influence in fashion all contributed to the demise of the Rosine perfume house. However, remaining inventory of Coeur en Folie and other Rosine scents continued to be sold at steeply reduced prices for several years after the company’s closure. These discounted bottles occasionally appeared in American department stores and European parfumeries into the late 1930s, with some as late as 1941—tiny, poignant remnants of a glamorous era that had swiftly faded.

Sang de France (1915)

Sang de France by Rosine was launched in 1915, during the harrowing early years of the First World War—a time of personal and national mourning, when France was consumed by both sacrifice and patriotism. The name, pronounced "Sahn duh Frahnss", translates literally from French as “Blood of France.” With such a title, the perfume evokes deeply emotional imagery: the lifeblood of a nation, the sacrifice of her sons and daughters, and the beauty and sorrow bound to the soil of France itself.

Paul Poiret’s decision to name a perfume Sang de France was profoundly personal. The deaths of two of his children—his young daughter Rosine from an ear infection, and his son Gaspard from the devastating Spanish influenza—cast a long shadow over his life and work. In this fragrance, one might see Poiret’s attempt to channel grief into something poetic, symbolic, and enduring. The name carries the weight of mourning but also the fierce pride and emotional intensity that characterized French identity during the war years.

Launched amid the turmoil of World War I, Sang de France was released at a time when the arts were becoming vehicles for national sentiment and personal expression. The year 1915 falls squarely within the Belle Époque’s twilight and the beginning of the modernist upheaval. Fashion had already been transformed by Poiret’s own innovations—freeing women from corsets, embracing draping, vivid color, and influences from the East. In perfumery, too, the language was becoming more expressive, more symbolic. Poiret’s perfumes were not merely decorative—they told stories, carried meaning, and, in this case, bore emotional and patriotic weight.

Yet despite its resonance, Sang de France was reportedly banned by the French authorities, likely due to the sensitivity of its title during wartime. It may have been seen as too provocative, too raw, or too political—reflecting a reality too painful for commercial consumption. One can imagine that for women in 1915, the name would have stirred intense, conflicted emotions: pride in their country, sorrow for their fallen sons and husbands, and perhaps admiration for Poiret’s boldness. At a time when fragrance often served as a comforting escape or romantic fantasy, Sang de France broke from convention. It would have stood out not for the composition alone, but for its stark and solemn message.

If interpreted as a scent, Sang de France might have opened with bold, red floral notes—perhaps geranium, rose, or even poppy—paired with the somber shadow of incense or dark resins, grounded in earthier tones like vetiver, oakmoss, or cistus labdanum. One could imagine a heart of noble florals, tempered with spice and smoke—both beautiful and unsettling. In this, it would have diverged sharply from the powdery florals and aldehydic bouquets that were popular at the time, marking it as an artistic and emotional outlier in the landscape of early 20th-century perfumery.

Ultimately, Sang de France remains one of Poiret’s most enigmatic and evocative creations—more elegy than accessory, and a rare example of perfume used not just to embellish, but to grieve, remember, and reflect.

Fragrance Composition:

I have no published notes on this perfume.

Bottle:

The bottle designed for Sang de France by Julien Viard was one of striking emotional and visual symbolism. Cast in bold red crystal, the flacon took the shape of a chunky heart—a deliberate and deeply evocative choice. The heart, rendered in vibrant red, evoked not only passion and vitality but also sacrifice, blood, and the emotional weight carried by the perfume’s name, which translates to Blood of France. The substantial form gave it a sculptural presence, anchoring the fragrance in something tactile and symbolic—meant to be held, felt, and contemplated.

Crowning this intense base was a frosted glass stopper shaped like angel's wings, a poignant, ethereal contrast to the heavy red glass of the body. These wings, delicately rendered, brought a celestial quality to the design—as if to suggest that the soul or spirit had lifted from the heart below. The symbolism here is powerful: a fusion of earthly suffering and heavenly ascent, of mourning and transcendence. It resonated deeply with the perfume's context, launched in the midst of World War I and connected to personal loss in Paul Poiret’s own life.

This same bottle was later repurposed by Viard for Coeur en Folie—a fragrance whose name means Mad Heart or Heart in Madness. Yet in its original incarnation for Sang de France, the design held solemnity and national sentiment. It was not merely decorative, but allegorical—blending artistry with emotion in a way that was emblematic of both Viard’s sculptural mastery and Poiret’s theatrical, deeply personal approach to perfumery.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Sang de France was discontinued in 1916, just a year after its launch, a casualty of the intense sensitivities that gripped France during the First World War. Despite its artistic and emotional depth, the perfume proved too provocative for the time, its symbolism deemed too raw and confrontational by the authorities.

An article in Harper’s Bazaar from 1916 captures this controversy succinctly: Poiret was reportedly compelled to withdraw Sang de France from the market. The objections were threefold—the bottle’s distinctive heart shape, which was seen as a stark symbol of vulnerability and sacrifice; the blood-red color of the fragrance extract, which visually evoked the harsh realities of war; and most pointedly, the name itself. “Sang de France” brutally emphasized the dire and painful conditions faced by the nation during the conflict, stirring emotions that many preferred to temper or avoid in commercial products.

This withdrawal highlights the complex relationship between art, commerce, and politics during wartime. While Poiret’s creation was a poignant homage to personal loss and national sacrifice, it clashed with the need for restraint and morale maintenance in a country deeply scarred by war. The perfume’s brief existence and abrupt disappearance remain a testament to the power of fragrance as both a cultural artifact and a form of expression that can challenge societal boundaries.

Aladin (1919)

Aladin by Les Parfums de Rosine, launched in 1919, emerged from Paul Poiret’s deep fascination with the exoticism and fantasy of the East—what was then broadly termed “Orientalism.” The name Aladin (pronounced "ah-lah-dan" in French, or Aladdin in English) evokes the legendary figure from One Thousand and One Nights, the boy with the magic lamp, who unlocks fantastical treasures and discovers boundless power. In naming this perfume Aladin, Poiret summoned the spirit of wonder, seduction, and mystery—a fragrance designed to transport the wearer into a world of golden palaces, enchanted gardens, and star-lit adventures in silk-draped tents.

Trademarked for perfume use on May 28, 1919, Aladin arrived in a world still recovering from the devastation of World War I. It was the beginning of Les Années Folles, or the Roaring Twenties in France—a time of artistic rebellion, bold fashion, and a craving for escapism. Poiret, known as the self-styled “Pasha of Paris,” was a master of this moment. His fashion, interiors, and perfumes were infused with theatricality and drama, drawn heavily from North African, Middle Eastern, and Asian influences. The packaging of Aladin reflected this fantasy: a lavish box illustrated by Mario Simon, depicting Poiret himself as a luxurious sultan—an echo of his costume balls and theatrical life.

In this context, Aladin spoke directly to the desires of the modern woman of the 1920s. No longer bound entirely by Victorian restraint, she sought sensuality, liberation, and beauty through perfume and fashion. To wear Aladin was to participate in a fantasy of romance and opulence, a world far removed from the drab reality of postwar life. Women of the time would have found the name intoxicating—both playful and daring—a scent for dreamers and women seeking a whisper of the East without ever leaving Paris.

As a fragrance, Aladin was classified as an oriental—a genre just beginning to find its footing in fine perfumery. With its rich spices, resins, and exotic florals, Aladin stood apart from the brighter, more floral compositions of the Belle Époque. It was, instead, a declaration of sensual power and mystery. Described as capturing “all the allure of grand Moorish palaces,” it featured ambergris, sandalwood, cinnamon, and other resinous ingredients that conjured warm, gilded interiors and embroidered silks.

In the landscape of perfumery at the time, Aladin was not merely in line with trends—it was helping to create them. It anticipated the rise of oriental perfumes that would dominate the 1920s and beyond, most famously with Guerlain’s Shalimar in 1925. As such, Aladin represents one of the earliest expressions of the modern oriental fragrance—an olfactory fairy tale spun in the language of desire, elegance, and faraway dreams.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Aladin by Rosine is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. It was described as having "all the allure of grand Moorish palaces."

• Top notes: aldehyde C-12 MNA, Calabrian bergamot, Amalfi lemon zest, Portuguese sweet orange oil, Paraguayan petitgrain, anisic aldehyde, Ceylon cardamom, Russian coriander
• Middle notes: Jamaican nutmeg, Szechuan cinnamon bark, Indian carnation absolute, Zanzibar clove bud oil, eugenol, Bulgarian rose otto, Moroccan rose absolute, Grasse jasmine absolute, Tunisian orange blossom absolute, hydroxycitronellal, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, benzyl salicylate, Omani frankincense, Somali olibanum
• Base notes: Sudanese myrrh, Mexican vanilla, ambergris, Siam benzoin, Mysore sandalwood, , Penang patchouli, Haitian vetiver, Austrian oakmoss, Cyprus labdanum, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, Tibetan musk, musk ketone, Abyssinian civet, Peru balsam, Colombian tolu balsam, guaiac wood, Atlas cedar, Levantine storax

Scent Profile:

Aladin by Rosine opens like the gilded doors of a grand Moorish palace—each breath an invitation into a tale spun from the Thousand and One Nights. Its top notes shimmer with aldehyde C-12 MNA, a synthetic molecule that imparts a waxy freshness tinged with metallic brightness, evoking cool white marble and sunlight on silk. 

This is quickly softened by the radiant citrus oils: Calabrian bergamot, prized for its balance of green bitterness and floral zest, and Amalfi lemon zest, which sparkles with sunlit acidity. Portuguese sweet orange oil adds a honeyed juiciness, while Paraguayan petitgrain, extracted from the twigs and leaves of the bitter orange tree, anchors the opening with a green, woody tang. A breath of anisic aldehyde lends a subtle, powdery sweetness, like a whisper of sugared anise pastilles. Then comes a flicker of spice: Ceylon cardamom, with its warm citrusy camphor note, and Russian coriander, drier and more resinous than its Moroccan cousin, offer the first hint of the opulence to come.

As the fragrance deepens into its heart, the air grows warmer, more intimate. Spices unfold like embroidered silks: Jamaican nutmeg, with its warm, woody pungency, is softened by the dry, fiery kiss of Szechuan cinnamon bark. The floral notes blossom fully now. Indian carnation absolute provides a rich, clove-like nuance, made more complex by Zanzibar clove bud oil, its fiery strength tempered by the cool spiciness of eugenol, the compound that gives clove its character. 

Three varieties of rose form the centerpiece: the peppery, earthy Bulgarian rose otto, the opulent and honeyed Moroccan rose absolute, and the green-leafy, dewy Grasse rose, each petal unfurling a different shade of femininity. Grasse jasmine absolute adds a narcotic, almost indolic sensuality, while Tunisian orange blossom absolute offers sun-drenched sweetness with an undercurrent of waxy depth.

Hydroxycitronellal, a soft, synthetic floral molecule, gives the illusion of fresh lily-of-the-valley and balances the indolic tones. Nossi-Be ylang ylang, from a rare offshoot of Madagascar, contributes banana-tinged creaminess and roundness. Benzyl salicylate, a versatile fixative and modifier, wraps the florals in a smooth, almost musky warmth. Wisps of sacred Omani frankincense and Somali olibanum curl through the florals like incense in an ancient chapel—dry, citrusy, and quietly sacred.

Then the base emerges, deep and resonant, like nightfall in the palace garden. Sudanese myrrh casts a bitter resinous shadow that contrasts the earlier sweetness, while Mexican vanilla, warm and caramelic, rises like sugared smoke. Ambergris, one of perfumery’s rarest materials, lends a saline, marine whisper that glows from within—soft, skin-like, and addictive. Siam benzoin lends a soft, balsamic roundness with hints of cinnamon and resin. 

Mysore sandalwood, no longer available today in its true vintage form, was once buttery, creamy, and sacred—far richer than the generic sandalwood of other regions. Penang patchouli, aged and rounded, provides an earthy, chocolatey undertone. Haitian vetiver adds smoky, green-grassy roots, while Austrian oakmoss brings a cool forest-floor dampness and velvety shadow. Cyprus labdanum is leathery and ambery, evoking tanned skins and desert winds. Venezuelan tonka bean brings its creamy almond and hay-like sweetness, while coumarin, a synthetic version of its aroma, enhances it with clarity and longevity.

Animalics shimmer through the base like shadows behind gauze: Tibetan musk, musk ketone, and Abyssinian civet all contribute warmth, sensuality, and a feral allure that lies just beneath the skin. Peru balsam and Colombian tolu balsam lend a cherry-resin softness. Guaiac wood and Atlas cedar deepen the base with a smoky, waxed-wood quality, while Levantine storax adds the final trace of darkness—a soft, inky balsamic line that ties the whole into a perfume of impossible grandeur.

Aladin is not simply a fragrance—it’s a story told in scent, one of spice markets, tiled palaces, glowing lanterns, and soft desert winds. It seduces not with brashness, but with layers of richness and complexity, each note unfolding like a secret whispered through a silk curtain.

Bottles:

The perfume Aladin by Les Parfums de Rosine was housed in one of the most visually enchanting and symbolically rich flacons of its time—a frosted glass bottle shaped like a snuff bottle, molded in bas-relief with dramatic scenes of mythological creatures locked in combat. These swirling forms were heightened by a rusty red patina that filled the recessed areas, giving the impression of a timeworn artifact unearthed from a distant past. This clever use of patina brought both dimensionality and a romantic sense of antiquity to the bottle. Two molded loops at the shoulders were not simply decorative—they were functional elements, allowing a delicate brass chain to be attached so the bottle could be carried or displayed, much like a precious object from an Orientalist fantasy.

Affixed toward the base was a long, slender silvery paper label that bore the name Aladin, complementing the bottle’s ornamental form without detracting from its rich surface decoration. These imaginative flacons were almost certainly designed in collaboration between Paul Poiret and his friend Maurice Schaller, the renowned perfumer-glassmaker who helped realize many of Rosine’s extraordinary bottles. The production of the flacons was carried out by Depinoix and Lefebure et Cie., whose craftsmanship brought Poiret’s theatrical vision into the realm of tangible, collectible luxury.

An equally stunning variation of the Aladin bottle was made in cast silvery metal, designed to mimic ancient Persian metalwork. Like the glass version, it too bore the same mythological battle scenes and was enhanced with red patina for visual depth. The metal version featured an integrated chain and molded lettering in place of a paper label—“Rosine” and “Aladin” were cast directly into the surface where a label would typically appear. Standing about 3 inches tall with its stopper in place, the metal version was a tactile and visual echo of the glass flacon, equally luxurious and just as collectible.

The stoppers for both bottles were crafted from early Bakelite, a material that allowed for intricate molding. These were designed with a pierced, carved effect and could be found in shades mimicking antique materials: aged ivory, green-stained bone, or warm amber. A practical yet charming detail was the carved notch at the top of each stopper. This allowed the factory to pass a baudruchage cord through it and wrap it securely around the neck of the bottle, effectively sealing the perfume within and preventing any leakage during shipment. This detail also added an artisanal finish, signaling quality and care.

But it is perhaps the packaging that most thoroughly embodied Poiret’s flair for storytelling. Designed by artist Mario Simon, the presentation box mirrored the exoticism of the fragrance and the bottle itself. Covered in richly printed paper that simulated Persian lacquerwork, the box was shaped to fit the flask precisely. Its lid featured an illustrated Persian miniature depicting Paul Poiret himself, costumed as a Persian sultan—an embodiment of Aladdin and Poiret’s own fantasy persona, the self-styled “Pasha of Paris.” A wide gold band framed the miniature, adding to its jewel-like allure.

The interior of the box continued this sensory journey. It was lined in striped multicolored West Indian fabric, chosen to mimic ancient Persian textiles. As with many of Poiret’s other creations, the textiles likely came from his personal collection of antique fabrics, which he often repurposed for couture or presentation pieces. A version of the same box was used for the metal flask, though it omitted the gold outer band framing the lid. However, it retained the same striped fabric lining, ensuring that the opulence of the interior matched the fantasy of the exterior.

Altogether, the Aladin presentation—a perfume, a bottle, and a box—was not merely packaging; it was a complete narrative in three dimensions. Each element reflected Poiret’s deep engagement with Orientalism, fantasy, and visual theater, transporting its wearer into a perfumed tale of Arabian nights and Parisian dreams.

 

Oregon News, 1920:

"Aladin Rosine" is lettered on a Chinese sort of silver bottle with jade green colored stopper perforated so that the fragrance may perfume the room."

The bottles used for the Eau de Toilette are of clear glass, molded like a tall, narrow, truncated pyramid shape. It was fitted with a ground glass stopper entirely gilded with gold enamel. It had a paper label that followed the triangular shape of the flacon. This was the standard flacon used for all Rosine Eaux de Toilette.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1919, Aladin by Les Parfums de Rosine emerged into a world just beginning to recover from the trauma of World War I. The fragrance was part of Paul Poiret’s continued dedication to storytelling through scent, and Aladin captured the spirit of escapism that many yearned for in the postwar years. Inspired by the mythical figure from The Thousand and One Nights, Aladin offered wearers a sense of exotic fantasy and sumptuous luxury—an olfactory carpet ride to grand Moorish palaces, intricate tiled courtyards, and spice-scented markets far from modern Europe's disillusionment.

However, Aladin’s dazzling journey was ultimately cut short. When Les Parfums de Rosine shuttered its doors in 1930, Aladin was among the many fragrances discontinued with it. The closure of the house marked the end of a truly unique chapter in perfume history—one that blended haute couture with perfumery, art with marketing, and fantasy with craftsmanship. Even though bottles of Aladin could still be found in shops as leftover stock into the early 1930s, the perfume itself would never again be produced. Its disappearance, like the fading light of an Oriental lantern, signaled not just the end of a scent, but the close of an era defined by Poiret’s imagination, theatricality, and fearless pursuit of beauty.

Avenue du Bois (1912)

Avenue du Bois by Les Parfums de Rosine was launched in 1912, a fragrance born from Paul Poiret’s deep admiration for the elegance and refinement of la belle époque. Its name—Avenue du Bois—translates from French as “Avenue of the Woods” (pronounced ah-veh-NEW dew BWAH), and refers to the then-prestigious Avenue du Bois de Boulogne, the grand tree-lined promenade leading to Paris’s beloved park, the Bois de Boulogne. This opulent avenue was a stage of society for the fashionable elite, a place to see and be seen, especially in the early 20th century. Among its residents were luminaries like couturier Jacques Doucet, whose home embodied the cultural splendor of the era. (Today, the avenue is known as Avenue Foch.)

By choosing this name, Poiret evoked not just a geographic location, but a lifestyle—a daily parade of carriages, gowns, parasols, and perfumes drifting beneath green canopies. It conjured images of refinement, grace, and the slow, self-assured elegance of women whose lives were draped in silk and shaded by plumed hats. The name Avenue du Bois suggests a gentle stroll through dappled woods in spring, the hush of nature softened by powdery florals and delicate woods.

The fragrance itself was described as a “delightful woodsy odeur,” composed with a sensitivity to maturity and poise. Advertisements recommended it especially for “the gracious middle-aged matron,” suggesting its character was gentle, comforting, and dignified. Poiret often advised women with silvering hair to seek out notes of violet or lilac, and given this guidance, Avenue du Bois likely featured one or both—adding to its air of classic refinement. These soft floral notes would have been cradled in a lightly wooded base, not heavy or mossy, but warm and serene, like sun filtering through leaves.

A trace of aldehyde C-12 MNA lent a modern polish, imparting a faintly metallic, waxy nuance that smoothed over the florals and woods with a soft amber glow. This early use of aldehydes—then still novel in perfumery—gave the composition a breath of light, enhancing its freshness while anchoring it with hints of citrus, tuberose, and even the creamy depth of coumarin.

In the context of its time, Avenue du Bois would not have seemed radical, but quietly innovative. While other perfumes celebrated opulence or overt florality, this one whispered, drawing the nose closer. It fit neatly within Poiret’s philosophy of elegance and age-appropriate luxury, offering a subtle confidence to women who had grown into their beauty. It was a scent of serenity and subtle grandeur—an olfactory homage to the quiet, unshakable presence of the belle époque woman.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  Avenue du Bois by Rosine is classified as a floral woody fragrance for women. It is described as having a "gentle woodsy fragrance, perfect for the gracious middle aged matron."

• Top notes: aldehydes, phenylacetaldehyde, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon zest, Guinea orange, Paraguayan petitgrain, green leaf accord, Persian galbanum, lily, Syrian cassie, anisicaldehyde
• Middle notes: lily of the valley accord, hydroxycitronellal, Dutch hyacinth, Tuscan violet, Florentine orris butter, inones, methyl anthranilate, Zanzibar carnation, Swiss lilac, lilacine, cinnamic alcohol, Portuguese tuberose absolute, Turkish rose otto, Riviera jasmine absolute, linalool, Moroccan orange blossom absolute, Manila ylang ylang oil, phenylethyl alcohol
• Base notes: Brazilian rosewood, Atlas cedar, Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, Tyrolean oakmoss, Cyprus labdanum, Tibetan musk, Indian musk ambrette, Venetian ambergris, Malaysian patchouli, Java vetiver, Peru balsam, Siam benzoin, Mexican vanilla, vanillin, guaiac wood, oakwood absolute, benzyl acetate, terpineol, Levantine storax, Abyssinian civet

Scent Profile:

Avenue du Bois by Rosine unfurls with a sparkling, graceful top that feels like the very first breath of dawn in a forested avenue. The aldehydes — crisp and shimmering — lend a clean, sophisticated lift, while phenylacetaldehyde adds a soft rosy nuance reminiscent of a freshly picked bloom. Calabrian bergamot and Sicilian lemon zest introduce a bright citrus twist, their Italian sun‑ripened oils giving a refined freshness. Guinea orange and Paraguayan petitgrain bring gentle sweetness and leafy green depth, the latter imparting a subtle wood-like tango with its twiggy facets. A green‑leaf accord along with Persian galbanum adds a dewy verdant crunch, like crushed foliage underfoot. Tender lily and Syrian cassie (acacia) lend a delicate floral whisper, and anisicaldehyde offers a whisper of licorice‑sweet sophistication.

In the heart, a bouquet of springtime blooms emerges. Synthetic lily‑of‑the‑valley and hydroxycitronellal capture that clean, green-floral aroma of woodland blooms — a fresh, unpollinated scent unattainable from nature alone. Dutch hyacinth brings its cool, spicy-floral elegance. Tuscan violet and orris butter weave in a powdery, powder-soft sweetness reminiscent of antique silk. Molecules like ionones and methyl anthranilate enhance violet and grape-like nuances, while Zanzibar carnation and lilacine deepen the florals with spicy, honeyed warmth. Swiss lilac and cinnamic alcohol sparkle with soft florals and faint spice. Portuguese tuberose, Turkish rose otto, and Riviera jasmine absolute layer rich, heady sweetness. Ylang ylang and orange blossom absolute provide creamy exoticism, with linalool and phenylethyl alcohol adding naturalistic lift and floral greenery.

As it settles, the base whispers of gentle woods, balsams, and soft musks. Brazilian rosewood brings a rosy-woody muskiness; Atlas cedar and Mysore sandalwood warm the drydown with smooth, creamy depth. Venezuelan tonka bean and coumarin create a hay-like sweetness, blending with labdanum’s resinous richness. Tyrolean oakmoss and Cyprus labdanum add dark earthiness and ambered warmth. Tibetan musk and ambrette seed imbue a soft, skin-close sensuality, while real ambergris and Abyssinian civet lend sophistication and primal allure. Malaysian patchouli and Java vetiver root the composition in mossy-woody bitterness. Peru balsam and Siam benzoin soften with vanilla-balsamic warmth; Mexican vanilla and vanillin add gentle creaminess. Guaiac wood and oakwood absolute contribute soft smoky sweetness, rounded by benzyl acetate, terpineol, and Levantine storax with faint balsamic fruitiness.

Why this resonates: Avenue du Bois balances the elegance of classic florals with the dignity of fine woods and modern aldehydes. The use of synthetics like hydroxycitronellal and lilacine allowed Rosine to capture elusive floral facets — clean, fresh, and refined — in a way the natural materials couldn’t. This made the perfume feel both familiar and subtly innovative for its time. The composition suits its namesake: a noble stroll through a shaded Parisian avenue, embraced by elegant greenery and floral whispers, ideal for the discerning, mature wearer seeking subtle sophistication.

The result is a polished, woody‑floral scent—graceful, softly luxurious, and utterly timeless.

Bottle:

The presentation of Avenue du Bois by Rosine was as evocative and elegant as the fragrance itself, housed in a bottle that subtly echoed the sophistication of the era. The flacon, made of clear glass, was unusually shaped—reminiscent of an abstract silhouette of a violin, with its graceful curves and refined proportions. This design lent a sense of musicality and refinement, as if the bottle itself were a visual prelude to the symphony of scents held within.

Atop this elegant bottle sat a domed stopper of gilded glass, its surface finely ribbed in a radial pattern that caught and reflected the light. It shimmered like the gold-dusted leaves of the Bois de Boulogne in autumn, subtly reinforcing the luxurious, nature-inspired theme of the perfume. A simple brick red and gold embossed paper label with scalloped edges adorned the belly of the flacon, while a coordinating neck label provided a touch of symmetry and balance. Tied delicately around the middle was a multicolored cord, adding a charming, almost bespoke flourish to the presentation.

The outer box was equally engaging—a pale green in color, with its surface printed in then-modern illustrations depicting the famed Avenue from which the perfume took its name. These images included early automobiles and fashionable pedestrians, capturing the cosmopolitan allure of Avenue du Bois before it was renamed Avenue Foch. The box, shaped to echo the outline of the bottle itself, felt both architectural and tailored, blending innovation with timeless grace. The overall presentation served not only as packaging, but as an artistic expression of the life and culture of Paris’s most fashionable thoroughfare—a tribute to the elegance, modernity, and refined femininity that Paul Poiret so ardently celebrated.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Avenue du Bois by Les Parfums de Rosine was launched in 1912, a time when Parisian perfumery was blossoming alongside the modern elegance of the Belle Époque. The fragrance was named after the chic, tree-lined avenue that led to the Bois de Boulogne—at the time, one of the most fashionable promenades in Paris, frequented by the city’s elite. The name itself, Avenue du Bois, evoked a refined naturalism and quiet luxury, conjuring images of polished carriages, trailing silks, and the delicate rustle of leaves overhead.

Though the perfume was well-received and reflected Paul Poiret’s refined aesthetic and modern sensibility, its lifespan was ultimately cut short. By 1930, Les Parfums de Rosine—Poiret’s ambitious fragrance house—was forced to close its doors, a casualty of economic hardship and changing cultural tides following World War I and into the Great Depression. Avenue du Bois, along with many of its sister scents, was discontinued when the house ceased operations.

Despite its discontinuation, remnants of Avenue du Bois lingered briefly in the years that followed. Old stock continued to appear in select shops as late as 1931, quietly preserving the memory of a fragrance that once captured the spirit of a refined, Parisian way of life. Today, Avenue du Bois stands as a fragrant relic of a bygone era—an olfactory tribute to the sophistication, natural grace, and artistry of early 20th-century perfumery.