La Rose de Rosine by Rosine was launched in 1912, at a time when the perfume world was blossoming with innovation and artistic expression. The name itself carries a personal and poetic significance: Paul Poiret named his perfumery after his daughter, Rosine, making it only natural to christen a rose-based fragrance La Rose de Rosine—literally, "The Rose of Rosine." In French, the name is pronounced roughly as "La Roz duh Ro-zeen." It evokes images of delicate petals, youthful beauty, and a tender elegance, while also suggesting a tribute that is both intimate and timeless.
The early 1910s, when this fragrance debuted, were marked by the transition from the opulent Belle Époque to the modernity of the pre-war era. Fashion was evolving from the elaborate styles of the late 19th century toward freer, more fluid silhouettes, influenced by emerging Art Nouveau and early Art Deco aesthetics. Women sought perfumes that embodied refinement and individuality, and a soliflore rose scent like La Rose de Rosine fit perfectly into this cultural moment—offering both classic romance and a modern sensibility.
La Rose de Rosine is a soliflore, focused primarily on the essence of rose, enriched with jasmine to add depth and richness. This combination elevated the fragrance, giving it a fuller, more textured floral heart that distinguished it from simpler rose scents of the time. While rose-based perfumes were common, this fragrance’s nuanced layering aligned it with the progressive trends in perfumery that emphasized complexity and artistry.
To celebrate this creation, Poiret commissioned his friend, the poet Roger Boutet de Monvel, who penned a vivid and evocative poem titled La Rose de Rosine or The Rose of Rosine. Boutet de Monvel’s verses beautifully capture the fragrance’s essence—depicting the rose as tender, flawless, and resplendent amidst a twilight garden, the singular bloom that remains luminous while all others fade. The poem conveys the rose’s richness and voluptuousness, mirroring the perfume’s enchanting and penetrating scent that lingers through the night.
Women of the period would have embraced La Rose de Rosine as both a statement of refined femininity and a symbol of poetic beauty. The name and scent together invited them into a world of personal elegance and romantic allure—an aromatic embodiment of youth, purity, and sophistication. In the broader context of early 20th-century fragrances, La Rose de Rosine harmonized with contemporary trends but stood out through its intimate dedication and artistic inspiration, securing its place as a cherished classic of its era.
Paul Poiret enlisted the talents of his close friend, poet Roger Boutet de Monvel, to craft a poem that would capture the essence and spirit of La Rose de Rosine. Boutet de Monvel’s evocative verses, titled La Rose de Rosine or The Rose of Rosine, serve not only as a tribute to the fragrance but also as a vivid sensory journey into the heart of the perfume’s inspiration.
The poem opens with a delicate meditation on color and purity—“Neither red, nor yellow, even less white. I see her rosy, all rosy, evenly rosy,”—painting an image of a rose unlike any other, perfectly tender and resplendent. This rose is flawless and pure, embodying “a dazzling virginity,” a metaphor for the perfume’s fresh, luminous quality that commands the beholder’s full attention. As night descends, the natural world seems to pause and listen: water fountains release “silver notes,” and a gentle breath stirs the garden’s quietude.
Boutet de Monvel masterfully describes a moment of natural transition as “the multitude of flowers plunge in a flutter,” their petals folding one by one, while the singular rose—the rose of Rosine—remains “unchanged, in luminous bloom.” It is this steadfast, radiant flower that becomes the embodiment of the fragrance: “the richest, the most penetrating, the most voluptuous of all perfumes.” The poem beautifully captures the sensual allure and lingering power of the scent as it rises, flows into the night, and permeates the deep park, evoking both intimacy and grandeur.
Through this poetic imagery, Boutet de Monvel elevates La Rose de Rosine beyond a mere fragrance, transforming it into a symbol of purity, passion, and timeless beauty—a perfect companion to Poiret’s vision of perfumery as an art form.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? La Rose de Rosine is classified as a floral fragrance for women.
La Rose de Rosine was more than a fragrance—it was a complete aesthetic statement, a convergence of fashion, design, and scent. The bottle and packaging were conceived with the same artistic vision that guided Paul Poiret’s fashion house, bringing together some of the most innovative minds of early 20th-century Paris. The box was created by Paul Iribe, one of the foremost illustrators and designers of the Art Deco period and a close collaborator of Poiret. He emblazoned the box with a clever rebus—a visual pun— the word “La,” followed by a rose, followed by “de Rosine,” linking the perfume directly to Poiret’s daughter Rosine, his perfume house's namesake. This was a sophisticated play on words and imagery, underscoring Poiret’s flair for theatrical branding. The stylized rose itself—became the emblem of the entire Rosine line and mirrored the branding used for his couture house, further blending the worlds of fashion and fragrance.
The perfume bottle, designed by Georges Lepape, was as inspired as the scent it held. Its silhouette was modeled on the pannier dress—a voluminous, hooped gown structure popular during the 18th century that dramatically extended the hips while keeping the front and back relatively flat. This exaggerated form is famously worn by Infanta Margarita, the young Spanish princess painted by Diego Velázquez in his 1656 masterpiece Las Meninas. Lepape took this historical reference and translated it into a modern bottle form: squat yet regal, curving out gracefully like the skirt of a pannier gown, lending the object a sense of both grandeur and femininity.
Delicate gilded rose motifs were stenciled onto the glass, a detail with an intriguing backstory. Originally designed for a fragrance advertisement by Parfumerie Lubin, the pattern was later repurposed by Iribe—whether by commission or quiet appropriation remains unclear—but it ultimately became a hallmark of Poiret’s Rosine line. These rose patterns were complemented by fine gold enameled vertical stripes, a reference to the rich decorative style of the Ancien Régime and possibly inspired by 18th-century French fabrics Poiret had collected. A wide gilded band encircled the neck of the bottle, giving it a sense of opulence, and the central medallion bore the R for Rosine—a quiet but unmistakable declaration of identity.
Altogether, the design of La Rose de Rosine's presentation encapsulated Paul Poiret’s vision: a fragrance as a total work of art, one that honored the elegance of history while simultaneously expressing the modernity and luxury of 1910s Paris. Through Lepape’s refined lines and Iribe’s graphic ingenuity, the bottle stood not just as a perfume vessel, but as an object of visual poetry—echoing the sophistication and romanticism of the scent within.
La Rose de Rosine was launched in 1912 at the height of Paul Poiret’s creative reign, during a moment when fashion, art, and perfumery began to merge into a unified expression of luxury and identity. It was among the earliest offerings from Les Parfums de Rosine, Poiret’s fragrance house named after his beloved daughter, and served as both a tribute to femininity and a symbol of his vision for modern beauty. As a soliflore centered on the rose, it was designed not only to honor the flower itself, but also to elevate it into a complete olfactory narrative, supported by carefully chosen floral and resinous notes.
So what does it smell like? The 1991 version of La Rose de Rosine by Rosine is classified as a powdery floral fragrance for women.
- Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian neroli, Moroccan cassie, Bourbon rose geranium, Bulgarian rose otto, Polish cassis
- Middle notes: Grasse tuberose absolute, Grasse rose de mai absolute, Turkish rose absolute, Riviera jasmine absolute, tuberose, Florentine orris butter, Comoros ylang ylang, Spanish mimosa, Grasse heliotrope
- Base notes: Abyssinian civet, Colombian tolu balsam, Brazilian rosewood, Argentinian guaiac wood, Indian musk ambrette seed, Mexican vanilla, Siam benzoin, Malaysian patchouli, Venetian ambergris
Scent Profile:
To experience La Rose de Rosine is to be drawn into a rose garden at its most ideal hour—just after dawn, when the petals are still kissed with dew and every blossom releases its scent in hushed exhalations. This fragrance is not merely a soliflore, but an orchestration of roses, each chosen for its unique tonal character, and carefully accompanied by complementary blooms and woods to elevate the rose from familiar to sublime.
The fragrance opens with the crisp brightness of Calabrian bergamot, its zesty, green-laced citrus sparkle adding a breath of freshness like early morning light. This is quickly followed by the honeyed, slightly waxy floral of Sicilian neroli, distilled from the bitter orange blossoms of southern Italy, lending an aristocratic white shimmer to the introduction. Moroccan cassie—rich, powdery, and green with a subtle violet nuance—adds body and a faint herbaceous sharpness. The Bourbon rose geranium from Réunion Island contributes a cool, minty-rosy edge that brings contrast to the unfolding floral heart. Polish cassis, or blackcurrant bud absolute, rounds out the top with a tart, fruity-green sharpness, its effect suggestive of crushed leaves and unripened fruit, which adds a tangy lift to the richer rose notes that follow.
At the heart, the rose reveals itself in a full spectrum: Grasse rose de mai absolute, soft and airy with honeyed, green facets; Turkish rose absolute, dense and jammy with spicy undertones; and Bulgarian rose otto, heady, radiant, and velvety. These three roses intertwine and unfurl as if in chorus, showcasing both purity and passion. They are adorned by Riviera jasmine absolute, offering its creamy, narcotic sensuality with faint indolic shadows, adding body and flesh to the floral ensemble. Grasse tuberose absolute enters next, rich, creamy, and opulent, enhancing the perfume’s voluptuous heart. Florentine orris butter introduces a cool, powdery veil, lending violet-like softness and a touch of suede-like luxury. Comoros ylang ylang, with its slightly banana-like fruitiness and warm exotic bloom, imparts roundness and sensuality, while Spanish mimosa brings powdery yellow sunlight and a faint almondy freshness. Grasse heliotrope, powdery-sweet with vanillic and almond nuances, adds a finishing whisper of creamy softness to the floral core.
The base is rich, warm, and deeply sensual. Abyssinian civet, used sparingly, lends a feral depth—its warm, musky-animalic facets providing a sensual purr that grounds the florals in the body. Colombian tolu balsam adds a soft, balsamic sweetness with a slight medicinal warmth, balanced by the smoky-resinous charm of Argentinian guaiac wood, which brings an incense-like tranquility. Brazilian rosewood, now endangered and rarely used, lends a rosy-woody spiciness that echoes the central rose theme while adding an exotic dryness. Indian ambrette seed, with its delicate muskiness and faintly fruity warmth, acts as a softening thread through the drydown, blending animalic and powdery notes with quiet elegance. Mexican vanilla and Siam benzoin add a creamy, resinous sweetness—rich without cloying, soft without dullness. Malaysian patchouli provides a subtle earthy undertone, less musty than other varieties, with a faintly camphoraceous edge that balances the sweetness. And finally, Venetian ambergris, in its finest aged form, floats through the composition like a saline, sunlit shadow—mineralic, smooth, and deeply intimate.
Together, these elements form a perfume that is as poetic as its name implies. La Rose de Rosine is not simply a fragrance of roses, but a fragrant essay on the idea of rose—feminine yet strong, elegant yet grounded, timeless yet utterly alive. It lingers like the memory of a perfect bloom, pressed forever in the mind’s garden.
Bottles:
The perfume bottle, designed by Georges Lepape, was as inspired as the scent it held. Its silhouette was modeled on the pannier dress—a voluminous, hooped gown structure popular during the 18th century that dramatically extended the hips while keeping the front and back relatively flat. This exaggerated form is famously worn by Infanta Margarita, the young Spanish princess painted by Diego Velázquez in his 1656 masterpiece Las Meninas. Lepape took this historical reference and translated it into a modern bottle form: squat yet regal, curving out gracefully like the skirt of a pannier gown, lending the object a sense of both grandeur and femininity.
Delicate gilded rose motifs were stenciled onto the glass, a detail with an intriguing backstory. Originally designed for a fragrance advertisement by Parfumerie Lubin, the pattern was later repurposed by Iribe—whether by commission or quiet appropriation remains unclear—but it ultimately became a hallmark of Poiret’s Rosine line. These rose patterns were complemented by fine gold enameled vertical stripes, a reference to the rich decorative style of the Ancien Régime and possibly inspired by 18th-century French fabrics Poiret had collected. A wide gilded band encircled the neck of the bottle, giving it a sense of opulence, and the central medallion bore the R for Rosine—a quiet but unmistakable declaration of identity.
Altogether, the design of La Rose de Rosine's presentation encapsulated Paul Poiret’s vision: a fragrance as a total work of art, one that honored the elegance of history while simultaneously expressing the modernity and luxury of 1910s Paris. Through Lepape’s refined lines and Iribe’s graphic ingenuity, the bottle stood not just as a perfume vessel, but as an object of visual poetry—echoing the sophistication and romanticism of the scent within.
Fate of the Fragrance:
La Rose de Rosine was launched in 1912 at the height of Paul Poiret’s creative reign, during a moment when fashion, art, and perfumery began to merge into a unified expression of luxury and identity. It was among the earliest offerings from Les Parfums de Rosine, Poiret’s fragrance house named after his beloved daughter, and served as both a tribute to femininity and a symbol of his vision for modern beauty. As a soliflore centered on the rose, it was designed not only to honor the flower itself, but also to elevate it into a complete olfactory narrative, supported by carefully chosen floral and resinous notes.
Despite its initial success and Poiret’s forward-thinking branding, La Rose de Rosine, along with the rest of the Rosine line, was discontinued in 1930 when the house fell victim to the shifting economic climate and changing tastes of the post-Depression era. However, remnants of this golden age lingered. Old store stock of La Rose de Rosine could still be found for sale as late as 1931, offered at clearance prices in department stores and perfumeries across Europe and abroad. These final bottles marked the quiet end of a remarkable chapter in perfume history.
Today, La Rose de Rosine is highly sought after by collectors, not only for its rare fragrance but also for its exquisite presentation. The original flacons, created by artist and designer Paul Iribe, are treasured examples of early 20th-century design. With their delicate proportions, stenciled rose motifs, and gold enamel detailing, the bottles capture the luxurious spirit of the Belle Époque. They are more than containers for scent—they are expressions of artistry and cultural history, encapsulating the brief but brilliant life of Les Parfums de Rosine and Poiret’s pioneering vision for the perfume as a total work of art.
1991 Reformulation & Relaunch:
La Rose de Rosine, originally launched in 1912, was given a new life in 1991 with the revival of Les Parfums de Rosine by Bernard and Marie-Hélène Rogeon. This reawakening of the historic brand marked a thoughtful return to the house’s roots, paying homage to Paul Poiret’s original vision while updating the perfumes for a modern audience. The relaunch of La Rose de Rosine was not a mere reproduction of its 1912 formula, but rather a reinterpretation—crafted to capture the romantic, richly floral essence of the original while using contemporary materials and perfumery techniques. It reintroduced the rose as its centerpiece, reaffirming its role as the symbolic flower of the house.
Marie-Hélène Rogeon played a central role in this renaissance. Her heritage is steeped in the legacy of French perfumery—she is the great-granddaughter of Louis Panafieu, a distinguished perfumer who created Eau de Cologne for Emperor Napoleon III and famously developed Pommade des Mousquetaires, a grooming pomade known for giving mustaches a refined, lustrous finish. With such lineage, Rogeon brought not only deep personal reverence for traditional fragrance-making but also a genuine familial link to the golden age of French perfumery. Her revival of Les Parfums de Rosine was thus not only a commercial endeavor, but a heartfelt continuation of a historical narrative.
Under her guidance, the house reestablished itself with a singular focus on the rose—each perfume exploring the nuances, moods, and personalities of this timeless flower. The 1991 version of La Rose de Rosine became both a tribute and a testament: a bridge between the Belle Époque artistry of Poiret’s original creation and the refined sensibilities of modern French perfumery. The relaunch ushered in a new era of appreciation for poetic, rose-centered fragrances, grounding the revived Rosine firmly in both heritage and innovation.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? The 1991 version of La Rose de Rosine by Rosine is classified as a powdery floral fragrance for women.
- Top notes: Tourette sur Loup violets, tagetes, ylang ylang, roses
- Middle notes: Turkish rose attar, Bulgarian rose attar, Grasse rose attar, jasmine, iris
- Base notes: tonka bean, benzoin, Peru balsam
Scent Profile:
The 1991 version of La Rose de Rosine is a gentle, powdery floral fragrance that blossoms from the bottle with the tender grace of a rose unfurling at dawn. From the very first breath, the composition envelops the senses in a soft, velvety veil—an homage to the old-world elegance of classic French perfumery, yet with a clarity and transparency suited to modern tastes. It is not merely a rose perfume; it is a portrait of the rose in its many facets—green, spicy, honeyed, dewy, and warm—layered with supporting florals and resins to create a complex and romantic experience.
The opening is delicate and slightly crisp. Tourette-sur-Loup violets, cultivated in the hills of Provence, lend a soft, green-powdery facet that is both nostalgic and luminous. These violets are prized for their subtly sweet, almost candied aroma—neither overpowering nor cloying—providing a poetic introduction. Tagetes, also known as marigold, contributes a sharp herbal brightness tinged with a hint of bitterness, which offsets the sweetness of the violet and foreshadows the spicy green heart. Then comes the ylang ylang from the Comoros Islands, whose intensely floral, banana-like creaminess floats just above the skin, sensual and lightly narcotic. And threading through it all are fresh-cut roses, not yet fully opened, dew still clinging to the petals—radiating purity, youth, and a promise of more to come.
As the perfume moves into the heart, it becomes unmistakably and gloriously rosy. The central accord is composed of three exceptional rose attars. Turkish rose attar, rich and full-bodied, lends a honeyed, jammy warmth. Bulgarian rose attar, known for its green, slightly lemony edge, brings freshness and dimension. Grasse rose attar, among the most prized in perfumery, adds powdery, petal-soft refinement with undertones of spice and clove. Supporting these are creamy, radiant jasmine and finely powdered iris—the latter derived from Florentine orris root, which imparts a buttery, suede-like texture. The floral heart is lush, classic, and unmistakably feminine, though never dated. It feels like the scent of antique French face powder kept in a silk-lined dressing table drawer.
The base offers a warm, resinous hush—gentle and comforting, like the final notes of a lullaby. Tonka bean introduces soft almond and haylike nuances, with its coumarin content lending a comforting, almost toasted sugar warmth. Benzoin, often harvested in Laos or Sumatra, brings a golden, vanilla-balsamic richness that softens the edges of the florals. Peru balsam, with its vanillic, cinnamic depth, closes the composition with a faint medicinal sweetness that anchors the rose and elevates the iris, giving the whole structure a resinous softness that lingers gently on the skin.
Together, these notes form a delicate symphony—romantic and tender, powdered like a vintage compact, kissed with dew and warmth. The 1991 La Rose de Rosine feels like a memory made tangible: timeless, composed, and intimately feminine, designed not to impress from across the room, but to enchant up close, as only a true soliflore can.
Bottle:
"Les Parfums de Rosine created at the beginning of the century by Paul Poiret remain in our memory as exquisite creations. Marie-Hélène Rogeon today remember the first of them, "La Rose de Rosine", born in 1911."
From Les Parfums de Rosine:
"The woman who wears it is ultra feminine, and a kind of diva.She is sensual, noble, beautiful and so refined. Her world is the boudoir and opera front seat.La Rose de Rosine is made with the sumptuous and opulent red rose.It belongs to the olfactory family: Floral and powdery.The perfume was created in 1991 by François Robert.Intense, velvety, intriguing La Rose de Rosine has a long-lasting trace.It brings an impression of power and refinement."
La Rose de Rosine, as reimagined in 1991 by perfumer François Robert for the revived Les Parfums de Rosine, is a fragrance that pays homage to the house’s earliest creation—Paul Poiret’s beloved 1911 soliflore—while embodying the elegance and complexity of the modern feminine ideal. The fragrance retains the soul of the original: a tribute to the rose, but now presented in a velvet gown of powder, spice, and floral intricacy. It is a scent composed not only of petals, but of presence.
The woman who wears La Rose de Rosine is imagined as a true diva—ultra-feminine, regal, sensual. She exists in a world of velvet-lined boudoirs and gilt opera boxes, her presence commanding yet refined. She is not loud, but luminous. This fragrance does not shout; it resonates. The choice of red rose as the central motif—sumptuous, opulent, and deeply carnal—signals a rose in full bloom, at the height of her beauty and power. This is not the pale, dewy rose of innocence, but a rose that knows her allure.
Classified as floral and powdery, La Rose de Rosine opens with a deep, velvety impression that immediately suggests vintage glamour. The rose at the heart of the fragrance is richly textured, likely composed of a blend of Turkish and Bulgarian rose essences and absolutes, with facets that suggest crimson petals, green stems, and the faintest hint of spice. Supporting florals—perhaps violet, iris, and jasmine—form a powdered veil around the rose, softening its edges and lending an aristocratic polish.
Powdered notes, reminiscent of fine cosmetics or antique pressed powder compacts, enhance the overall texture of the scent. These notes are evocative of iris (likely in the form of orris butter), violet (perhaps ionones), and heliotrope, blending warmth with a soft, almond-like sweetness. This powdered nuance doesn’t feel old-fashioned; instead, it feels theatrical and poised, like the rustle of silk under a chandelier.
The base of the perfume is where its intrigue lies. Anchored with tonka bean, balsams, and musk, it develops a long-lasting and slightly animalic trail. The effect is not heavy but persistent—an intimate signature left behind on a scarf or glove. Amber and benzoin lend richness, while soft woods provide structure. The musk and powder interplay creates an aura of refinement and closeness, as if the fragrance lives on the skin rather than above it.
In every breath, La Rose de Rosine evokes refinement and poise. It is not merely a floral perfume—it is a character sketch, a costume, a stage light. It reminds us that rose, though familiar, can still surprise. And as with the woman who wears it, beneath the velvet and silk is something undeniably strong.
