Chypre des Îles, launched by Les Parfums de Rosine in 1925, was a poetic and imaginative addition to Paul Poiret’s radiant Série du Soleil fragrance collection. The name—French for “Chypre of the Islands” (pronounced “sheep-ruh day zeal”)—is rich in layered meaning. "Chypre" refers both to the Greek island of Cyprus, long associated with the origins of perfumery, and to a specific fragrance family characterized by a bold contrast between fresh citrus top notes and a warm, mossy, and resinous base. The addition of “des Îles” (of the islands) lends an exotic, sun-drenched fantasy, conjuring images of faraway isles, perfumed breezes, and golden shores—an idealized, escapist vision so fitting for the mood of the 1920s.
Why Poiret chose this name likely lies in his flair for the theatrical and his enduring fascination with the exotic. The 1920s, known in France as les années folles (the “crazy years”), were a period of exuberance, recovery, and creativity following the trauma of the First World War. Women were embracing new freedoms, modern fashions, and bolder cosmetics, and perfumery was evolving to reflect this spirit of innovation and glamour. Poiret, always a champion of modernity and fantasy, saw fragrance not merely as a product but as a story—and Chypre des Îles was one of sun-soaked indulgence, sensual mystery, and Mediterranean reverie.
The term “chypre” in perfumery denotes a specific olfactive structure with roots in antiquity, but it was François Coty’s 1917 Chypre that codified the modern genre. The formula typically includes bergamot in the top notes, floral or fruity elements in the heart, and a deep, rich base of oakmoss, labdanum, and patchouli. Variations might tilt toward leather, green, floral, or fruity interpretations. By the time Chypre des Îles appeared, the chypre style had become a fixture of perfumery, with nearly every house offering their own interpretation. What made Rosine’s version distinct was its fanciful, tropical twist—an “island” interpretation that softened the structure with languid florals or exotic fruits, while maintaining the core chypre contrast of brightness and depth.
